11 days until I move to Bombay.
This means, tons of work to do in Delhi, I have to pack (and give Priya all the stuff I am not taking with me), and I have to see everyone before I go.
This also means I will be a bit absent from blogging until I reach my new destination, for four more months of research before returning to Delhi for writing-up and reflecting. Just cross your fingers that I find an apartment in Bombay sooner rather than later.
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
Monday, January 19, 2009
January Weeks
So along with crazy amounts of work these last few weeks have included one flu/fever (ugh) where Anju (my flat mate) came to the rescue by making sure I ate, slept and stayed warm in the chilly Delhi nights and tons of other stuff, here is some of it:
These weeks have included my first forays into Indian cooking, I helped Anju make subjzi (vegetables), some curry and parathas. And... I made my first dish on my own, Chana Masala (chick peas and curry sauce). It actually turned out well. I brought it to Futurebrands for lunch, where everyone eats together in large groups and shares all the dishes and food they brought (not usually the rotis and rice they bring) but the dal or subzi they made that day. In this way, everyone gets some dal and vegetables to eat, and gets to try different things. So that day, for lunch, everyone liked it and said it was well spiced and well cooked and tasted like it was not the first time I had ever used a pressure cooker. This was exciting, because pressure cookers are just a bit scary.
In other news, it was my birthday on Jan 18th and I celebrated in Delhi style with an evening to bring in my birthday at the bar Buzz and then at the ever-hip club Tabla Rasa, thanks to Sumi, who got us in for free where there happened to be a free and open bar! Needless to say we of course all ordered the most expensive drink on any bar’s menu in Delhi… wine!
On Sunday itself I had a wonderful lunch with friends at The Big Chill (no- not the movie) an Italian restaurant in Delhi, I ate like an American and ordered pasta with meat balls (chicken ones- no beef in Delhi). After that, my friend and Futurebrands colleague Arati and I went to Chandini Chowk to China and actually enjoyed it despite bad reviews and some crazy ketch/mellow drama going on. As a visual anthropologist, all I can say is: move over Euro-America, Asia is taking over. (Here instead of the usually trip to Australia, Europe, the US or Canada, the movie moves the action literally from Delhi to China- weather either country wants to admits it, they need each other as much as they are rivals). Although the rest of the movie needs you to suspend all logic!
By the way- Mumbai here I come on February 7th.
These weeks have included my first forays into Indian cooking, I helped Anju make subjzi (vegetables), some curry and parathas. And... I made my first dish on my own, Chana Masala (chick peas and curry sauce). It actually turned out well. I brought it to Futurebrands for lunch, where everyone eats together in large groups and shares all the dishes and food they brought (not usually the rotis and rice they bring) but the dal or subzi they made that day. In this way, everyone gets some dal and vegetables to eat, and gets to try different things. So that day, for lunch, everyone liked it and said it was well spiced and well cooked and tasted like it was not the first time I had ever used a pressure cooker. This was exciting, because pressure cookers are just a bit scary.
In other news, it was my birthday on Jan 18th and I celebrated in Delhi style with an evening to bring in my birthday at the bar Buzz and then at the ever-hip club Tabla Rasa, thanks to Sumi, who got us in for free where there happened to be a free and open bar! Needless to say we of course all ordered the most expensive drink on any bar’s menu in Delhi… wine!
On Sunday itself I had a wonderful lunch with friends at The Big Chill (no- not the movie) an Italian restaurant in Delhi, I ate like an American and ordered pasta with meat balls (chicken ones- no beef in Delhi). After that, my friend and Futurebrands colleague Arati and I went to Chandini Chowk to China and actually enjoyed it despite bad reviews and some crazy ketch/mellow drama going on. As a visual anthropologist, all I can say is: move over Euro-America, Asia is taking over. (Here instead of the usually trip to Australia, Europe, the US or Canada, the movie moves the action literally from Delhi to China- weather either country wants to admits it, they need each other as much as they are rivals). Although the rest of the movie needs you to suspend all logic!
By the way- Mumbai here I come on February 7th.
Friday, January 2, 2009
Raj Kachori
While Back in Delhi, I thought I should introduce everyone to one of my favorite foods: Raj Kachori. This chaat (street food or snack that combines elements of chips, spices, masalas, sauces, yogurt and everything you can think of) is amazing and fun to eat. Not to mention it also tastes very good. If given a chance you should try it. Here is one of the best ones I ate in Delhi.
Rajasthan
After Mumbai and a world wind Lonely Planet walking tour of Jaipur and a quick lunch at the Ganesha Restaurant (I highly recommend it), Rachel and I only had a few hours of sunlight to explore the city. The next day we headed off with fellow Fulbrighters Callin, Michele and Jaspreet to the Amber fort for some nice fort touring and then to Jodhpur. Jodhpur is by far my favorite city in Rajasthan. First of all it is beautiful. Many of the buildings in the old city are painted blue (it is often called the "Blue City"), the people there are very nice and helpful. One helped Rahel and I negotiate a rickshaw and everyone we met were happy to give directions. The famous and mountain top fort/palace of Jodhpur is also amazing and probably the best preserved and maintained fort in Rajasthan with an amazing audio tour (yes in India there is an amazing audio tour that was really fun to listen to and informative). The fort is also very well preserved and restored. Although our hotel was a little strange (crazy painted rooms and a strange, sometimes too talkative, hotel owner), the overall experience was fun and we treated ourselves to some great Rajasthani food.
After Jodhpur we all headed to Jaisalmer, the city at the edge of the desert. Also very beautiful like Jodhpur, but not blue. It has some very famous havelis (littlerally wind-lights) or large ornate houses with large courtyards in the middle that let in wind and light. The havelis were great, the the narrow winding streets of the city were fun to explore except for... all the cow shit that was everywhere. There were sooooooo many cows in such small streets that everywhere you walked you always had to look down so you would not step in a cow pie. Not to mention the smell. The Jaisalmer fort, which has literally been incorporated into the city (there are houses and shops in it) is currently sort of in disrepair with stones falling off of it every year. But it has great views of the city and a great massage parlor. Yes... while everyone went on a camel safari (I have already done one and so has Rachel) Rachel and I opted out and opted in for massages instead. A lot more comfortable and better smelling!
After Jaisalmer we traveled to Bikaner for a night (ate amazing home cooked food) and then made the nauseating (small bumpy roads) and long (8 hours) trip back to Delhi. After all this traveling, I have to admit, its nice to be back. But it was fun to see so much too.
See the Vacation pictures I posted to the side.
After Jodhpur we all headed to Jaisalmer, the city at the edge of the desert. Also very beautiful like Jodhpur, but not blue. It has some very famous havelis (littlerally wind-lights) or large ornate houses with large courtyards in the middle that let in wind and light. The havelis were great, the the narrow winding streets of the city were fun to explore except for... all the cow shit that was everywhere. There were sooooooo many cows in such small streets that everywhere you walked you always had to look down so you would not step in a cow pie. Not to mention the smell. The Jaisalmer fort, which has literally been incorporated into the city (there are houses and shops in it) is currently sort of in disrepair with stones falling off of it every year. But it has great views of the city and a great massage parlor. Yes... while everyone went on a camel safari (I have already done one and so has Rachel) Rachel and I opted out and opted in for massages instead. A lot more comfortable and better smelling!
After Jaisalmer we traveled to Bikaner for a night (ate amazing home cooked food) and then made the nauseating (small bumpy roads) and long (8 hours) trip back to Delhi. After all this traveling, I have to admit, its nice to be back. But it was fun to see so much too.
See the Vacation pictures I posted to the side.
Tuesday, December 23, 2008
Mumbai and Rajasthan
After Goa, Rachel and I headed to Mumbai, the city which will be my home for 4 months starting in February. Reaching in the early morning at the usually crowded CST train station, we were greeted by taxiwalas wanting us to take their cab and views of the glass with bullet holes in it from the terrorist attack only a few weeks before. We then headed to my friend Raj's house (where we would be staying). Once there and greeted by Raj we had some tea, coffee and chapatis and a shower, we went to see Raj's office at Idea Domain. This is one of the sites I will be working at in Mumbai. After that it was off to Bandra (the cool suburb- think Brooklyn- not actually a suburb) of Mumbai to be trendy and get lunch. After walking around, eating and doing some show shopping, we met up with my friend Priya's brother, Dhruv. He showed us around Bandra, took us to see the Bollywood actor Shahruh Khan's house, and to the beach front where the cool college kids hang out. After that it was off to a Magnet (a wall mart-like Indian store) where you can get everything you need to do some shopping for a party Raj was having that night. Magnet was fascinating but not bigger then a "normal" American supermarket, it is apparently also on illegal land that is suppose to be used for a mill not a store so it is there illegally.
After Raj's party that night and a trip around the touristy parts of Mumbai, a Lonely Planet walking tour of the interesting old buildings, a view of the Taj Mahal Hotel and its current reconstruction post terror attacks, and a visit to the best bakery in Mumbai, we hoped a train to Jaipur for the Rajasthan leg of our journey.
What struck me about Mumbai was how nice people where, and helpful, they were thankful that Rachel and I were in the city and touring around (despite the terrorist acts), and were eager to show their resilience and unity in the face of such acts. There were many signs on billboards and bumper stickers on cars with statements of a unified Mumbai against acts of terror, very reminiscent of similar signs after 9/11 in NYC. In general Mumbai is an easier city to get around then Delhi, there are nice sidewalks and less staring and eve teasing by men. Also women tend to dress less conservatively (which is good because it is going to be so hot there in April and May, and I want to be able to wear some skirts that end at the knee and not the ankle.
Now Rachel and I have met up with the Fulbright group. We have toured Jaipur and are now in Jodhpur, the beautiful and friendly blue city. But more on that later...
After Raj's party that night and a trip around the touristy parts of Mumbai, a Lonely Planet walking tour of the interesting old buildings, a view of the Taj Mahal Hotel and its current reconstruction post terror attacks, and a visit to the best bakery in Mumbai, we hoped a train to Jaipur for the Rajasthan leg of our journey.
What struck me about Mumbai was how nice people where, and helpful, they were thankful that Rachel and I were in the city and touring around (despite the terrorist acts), and were eager to show their resilience and unity in the face of such acts. There were many signs on billboards and bumper stickers on cars with statements of a unified Mumbai against acts of terror, very reminiscent of similar signs after 9/11 in NYC. In general Mumbai is an easier city to get around then Delhi, there are nice sidewalks and less staring and eve teasing by men. Also women tend to dress less conservatively (which is good because it is going to be so hot there in April and May, and I want to be able to wear some skirts that end at the knee and not the ankle.
Now Rachel and I have met up with the Fulbright group. We have toured Jaipur and are now in Jodhpur, the beautiful and friendly blue city. But more on that later...
Wednesday, December 17, 2008
Vacation!
After switching apartments (and trying to find a permanent one) for two weeks and having access to no reliable Internet, I am finally out of Delhi and on vacation with my cousin Rachel in... Goa! Yes Goa, the beachy and touristy part of India were there are a lot of old hippies in thongs (especially men who might want to consider a change of wardrobe) and Israelis. Except this year it seems to be pretty empty all around. Even the people trying to get us to buy stuff tell us that the prices are really really low because no one is here. Well okay, but it still seems high to me... Anyway, the empty beaches and not so party like atmosphere mean that we are getting a lot of snooze time on the beach but not a lot of raves. This is okay since nether of us are big ravers. So its actually been really low key and nice to sit around and do nothing. A nice switch from running around trying to get work done in Delhi while trying to find an apartment. I am happy to have nothing to do. Our next stop is Mumbai (Bombay) for a few days and then it is off to Rajasthan. I apologies for the lack of pictures, I will do my best to post some images when I am back in Delhi, even though I still have no Internet in my apt, hopefully it will work from the Internet cafe down the street. Fingers crossed because there is nothing like sunbathers and a cow together on the beach!
Saturday, December 6, 2008
Work, Work, Work
This week was an amazing research week for me. I attended three focus groups for one of the agencies I am working with, to test a new beauty brand. The participants for these groups were middle class India women, some were married and others were not not. But the groups were all in Hindi and I understand most of what was said!
Other than being in Hindi, focus groups are run a bit differently here than the ones I have attended in the US. Here the people running the focus groups come to the participants (especially because these participants are young women). So the groups are held in a person's living room (basically someone rents their house out for a few hours to hold the focus group there, get paid to do so, and serves the participants and interviewers snacks and tea) and in the same neighborhood as the participants live. This means they do not have to travel far, so they spend as little time away from their family as possible, and are allowed to attend the groups, since many families do not like women traveling by themselves around Delhi. Also since the focus groups are in a house, the women are more comfortable. The home is women's space. An office building is a male space, and would be uncomfortable for women participants, as well as far away. I cannot go into the questions asked as they are for the agency I was working with. But the groups were facinating, and just interacting with this group/demographic of women and hearing what they had to say was enlightening and great for my research.
Other than being in Hindi, focus groups are run a bit differently here than the ones I have attended in the US. Here the people running the focus groups come to the participants (especially because these participants are young women). So the groups are held in a person's living room (basically someone rents their house out for a few hours to hold the focus group there, get paid to do so, and serves the participants and interviewers snacks and tea) and in the same neighborhood as the participants live. This means they do not have to travel far, so they spend as little time away from their family as possible, and are allowed to attend the groups, since many families do not like women traveling by themselves around Delhi. Also since the focus groups are in a house, the women are more comfortable. The home is women's space. An office building is a male space, and would be uncomfortable for women participants, as well as far away. I cannot go into the questions asked as they are for the agency I was working with. But the groups were facinating, and just interacting with this group/demographic of women and hearing what they had to say was enlightening and great for my research.
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